Islamic Cairo: After the agonies of rule by the Byzantine Empire, the Egyptian people were indifferent to capture of the country by the early Muslim generals. Egyptian Christians of the Coptic sect were especially hostile to Byzantine rule, but the high taxes and corruption over time made the rule from Baghdad progressively less popular. In the 9th century AD, the local governor established the first autonomous Muslim state in Egypt. The shift between external and local rule continued for hundreds of years, with an occasional crusade or plague tossed in for good measure. The problems resembled those of the rest of the Muslim world, who argued whether the successors to Mohammad should be by election on based on heredity. Of those who favored the latter, the most successful in Egypt were the Fatimids, who based their claims on power through the direct decent though the prophet’s daughter. This was last Arab dynasty to rule Egypt, falling to the great general Saladin in 1171. He began work on the Citadel, an impressive series of buildings within a fortress, as a place from which to command his armies. Construction continued for almost 700 years, and the complex served as the seat of government until only about 150 years ago.

Rule of Egypt after Saladin brought Abbasid Khalifs, Mamluk Sultans, and Ottomans before Europe invaded again. The expulsion of the French in 1800 by combined British and Ottoman troops, and the resulting chaos finally proved enough. The people of Cairo turned to Mohammad Ali, the Ottoman general, to restore order. He defeated the British, and, after inviting them to celebrate at the Citadel, murdered the rebellious local Mamluk officers, who were the last to contest his power. He and his family ruled for almost 150 years, and thoroughly modernized Egypt. Built inside the Citadel is the Muhammad Ali Mosque, designed by a Greek architect following Ottoman designs with a few ancient and Mamluk decorations thrown in for good measure. Reminiscent of the mosques of Istanbul, its walls are covered with a beautiful alabaster finish, and it is often called the Alabaster Mosque. The terraces in the back offer a terrific view of the city.

Old Cairo has Coptic treasures, and the Coptic Museum has the famed Nag Hammadi Codices (which we can direct you to if you are not much of a shopper), but at this point we are off to the bazaar. The Khan al-Khalili is Cairo’s most famous bazaar, selling silk, clothing, fine jewelry and kitsch. Egyptians are very friendly people, famously hospitable, but the key word to a good deal is “haggle.”

Farewell Dinner: Join your ROmanCE VOYAGES staff and all your new friends for a fabulous farewell dinner. Toast to a wonderful adventure and firm up all your plans for your next ROmanCE VOYAGE.